Is there joy in everyday fear? The type of fear that you bring upon yourself? Perhaps! If nothing else, it reminds us we’re here. And, like, without the dark there can be no light. Self-elected fear is a complex emotion; As a surfer, it’s likely you know what it is to paddle over a lump and see a feathering lip on the horizon, and feel that wonderful drop in your gut. But, what about those who take the bizarre activity of surfing to its wildest limits? How do they wrestle the high-voltage fear they regularly encounter? This greatly interests us.
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